Showing posts with label Maison Linette. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maison Linette. Show all posts

Friday, April 12, 2013

Flashback Friday: Beatrix's Style

You don't have to know much about Queen Beatrix to know her style. That hair, those hats - you'd recognize them anywhere. The Beatrix Style we know today is one that has evolved over the years, of course; born in 1938, the monarch's fashion history includes exactly what you'd expect from most decades, becoming more and more unique until eventually she was left with something that was solely her own.
The young Princess
In her younger years, Beatrix wore what you'd expect from a young woman at the time, though she struggled, at times, to find a good match for her own looks and shape. It wasn't until the 1960s, I'd say, that she really hit her stride. The stride came along when a few key people entered the Princess' life. Of course there was Claus von Amsberg, who she married in 1966 - there's a certain confidence and a happy glow that came along with marriage and motherhood. But there are also meetings in this decade that changed Beatrix's style on a more superficial level.
As a fiancée, a bride, and a new mother. The wedding gown is by Caroline Bergé-Farwick. The engagement dress was later worn by Princess Mabel.
First came the hair. Beatrix called on Alexandre of Paris, the man responsible for many notable coiffures of the time, including memorable gravity-defying updos seen on the likes of Princess Grace. For the future Queen of the Netherlands, the famous hairstylist prescribed a short and strategically voluminous 'do which balanced out the shape of her face. It was a true 1960s style, but Beatrix has kept very close to that initial creation ever since. All other headgear (hats, tiaras) must conform to the 'do, not the other way around. Perhaps she's kept it all these years because it is the only thing she's comfortable with, or perhaps she keeps it because it is an integral part of her public face, an instantly recognizable trademark.
Queen Juliana's abdication and Queen Beatrix's inauguration, 1980. Beatrix's outfits are from Theresia Vreugdenhil, who also restored the ermine robe.
The 1960s also brought the woman that was to have a great hand in shaping the sartorial side of Beatrix's look. In 1965, Princess Beatrix met Dutch couturier Theresia Vreugdenhil. For the next four decades, Vreugdenhil would be a primary dressmaker for the Queen. She led a team including milliners such as Harry Scheltens to create the Beatrix style we know today, and was responsible for such memorable outfits as those worn for Queen Beatrix's inauguration. Vreugdenhil stopped working for the Queen in 2007 and passed away in 2012. Sheila de Vries and others are now responsible for the Queen's clothes.
Prinsjesdag outfits
But Beatrix's style is not entirely the creation of dressmakers and milliners and so on. If you recall, this is a woman that provided the design ideas for her own wedding gown, so her interest in her own style has been keen all along. And you can tell when you look at the clothes - these are clearly designed specfically for the Queen and her own comfort and confidence level.
Eveningwear through the years
The chief Beatrix Look starts at the top: if not the hair (which is a hat on its own), then a hat or tiara. She experimented with different shapes of hats initially, but settled on a wider model - wide enough to encompass That Hair - often with a flat top, and perhaps some ornamentation stuck on for good measure. They are Beatrix Hats, a uniquely identifiable variety of millinery. Her tiaras are nestled into The 'Do, even if that means only a small piece of the tiara can be seen over the hair.
Hats and hats and hats
The outfits of the Beatrix Look often feature a neckline with some sort of intricate design detail: ruffles, folds, even feathers. The waistline is usually either above or below the waist when it is defined, though it often isn't. She prefers a wrap, perhaps fur-trimmed, to guard against the cold. The sleeves are usually three-quarter length and are big - this is not a queen afraid of some pouf. The skirt length for day wear is below the knee, nearing the too long point. And all the same features apply for gowns, substituting a floor length skirt. The fabrics are rather lush, some collected over the years by the Queen.
A standard Beatrix run of outfits - from the 2011 state visit to Germany (click to enlarge)
Is she fashionable? Maybe not, but that's not the point. This goes beyond the outfits that get splattered on the front page. It is uniquely Beatrix, an instantly recognizable silhouette which is comforting in its familiarity. It's a part of her show, just as the neatly matched day outfits of Elizabeth II or the sweeping theatrical evening outfits of Margrethe II are a part of their own images. Who else could pull off a big hat, big sleeve, frilly neckline and maybe even a flared skirt all at once, and do it successfully?

What part of Beatrix's style do you find most memorable? 

Photos: ANP/PPE/Corbis/Getty Images/gahetNA

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Wedding Wednesday: Queen Beatrix's Gown

HRH Princess Beatrix of the Netherlands and Claus von Amsberg
March 10, 1966
Amsterdam, Netherlands

Princess Beatrix - the oldest of the four daughters of Queen Juliana and Prince Bernhard, and the future Queen of the Netherlands - fell in love with a diplomat with an aristocratic background, which might normally be a recipe for a perfect future prince consort. But Beatrix had a problem: her love, Claus von Amsberg, was German. So was her father, but now the Dutch were living in a post-World War II world. And for many of her countrymen, welcoming a former member of the Hitler Youth (which he was required to join) and the Wehrmacht (he was drafted in, and never participated in active combat) into the royal family just two decades after Nazi occupation was a lot to ask.
The carriage procession with smoke bomb in the background
Beatrix and Claus (with the help of Prince Bernhard) won acceptance from Queen Juliana and won the required permissions from the Dutch government. Their wedding was cheered by many, but the day was also marked by protests including a smoke bomb thrown at the carriage procession. Beatrix herself noted that it was not a fairytale affair - but judging only by the happiness you see in the photos of the bride and groom, you'd never know.
The wedding gown was made by Caroline Bergé-Farwick of Maison Linette, a couturier to the Dutch royal family (and designer of Princess Margriet's gown), but the design ideas came from the bride. The outcome was a high neckline gown with three-quarter sleeves and a slim skirt underneath the train, which begins as a split skirt from the waist and extends back. The dress features a subtle pattern mimicking the swirled design of her tiara, made by creating a velvet effect on the satin. The pattern runs on the lower skirt as well as down the sides of the split top skirt and onto the train.
The tiara made the look in more ways than the dress pattern. She wore the family's large diamond and pearl tiara, often called the Württemberg Tiara (more on that tomorrow, of course), in its most impressive form. It was backed by her waist-length voluminous tulle veil. She also wore a family heirloom pearl and diamond leaf brooch with a pearl pendant.
This gown is certainly a 1960s gown, sharing many of the simple characteristics we've seen time and again in other wedding dresses from this era. But I've always felt this one has something more, a distinctly regal feel that sets it apart. From the historic (and humongous) tiara to the brooch placement to the long gloves she wore throughout the day, this dress is most certainly the dress of a future queen.
Video: The wedding day
I think the dress was a winner, and in the end, her groom turned out to be a winner too. Claus won over the Dutch public, eventually topping polls as the most popular member of the royal family, and his death in 2002 was genuinely mourned. Beatrix and Claus had three sons, Willem-Alexander, Friso, and Constantijn. Beatrix will end a reign that began in 1980 on April 30, 2013, when she abdicates in favor of Willem-Alexander.

What do you think of this dress: regal, or not quite?

Photos: ANP/Corbis/Gahetna

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Wedding Wednesday: Princess Margriet's Gown

HRH Princess Margriet of the Netherlands and Pieter van Vollenhoven
January 10, 1967
The Hague, Netherlands

Today's gown - which inspired several questions and requests after our look at January royal brides - belongs to Princess Margriet of the Netherlands, daughter of Queen Juliana and Prince Bernhard. Her engagement to Pieter van Vollenhoven, a Dutch commoner, was announced in 1965 but they didn't marry until 1967, after her sister Princess Beatrix's wedding.
Video: Don't miss the snow bunny bridesmaids!
Margriet worked with Dutch couturier Caroline Bergé-Farwick from Maison Linette for her wedding dress, just as her sister had. The creation is classic for the period and the season: completely covered with a high neckline and long sleeves, a slim silhouette and small train on the dress itself, and a long five meter train extending from the back. Though it looks quite simple from a distance, up close the gown is heavily embellished. Margriet, whose name means daisy, took the floral theme and ran with it.
The dress fabric came from Paris, where it was embroidered with daisies. There are hundreds of daisies covering every inch of the dress and train; the upper portion of the bodice and the train feature daisies with pearl accents. She also carried a bouquet of daisies and topped her voluminous updo with a short tulle veil and the Pearl Button Tiara - a diadem which includes buttons in the form of small daisy-esque flowers.
Her daisy excess reminds me of Princess Mabel's bow overdose - but since Margriet's is more of a subtle, embossed effect, it doesn't overwhelm like the bows did. It's a look that isn't done much justice by the photography of the time (similar to the lost detail on Queen Sofia's gown).
It was said that Princess Beatrix and Prince Bernhard weren't entirely in favor of this match, since Pieter did not come from a noble family, and did not have a title. Thankfully, time has proven those reservations incorrect. Margriet and Pieter have provided crucial support for Queen Beatrix through the years. They had four sons and have several grandchildren now, and can still be seen at many royal events.

What do you think of Margriet's daisy dress?

Photos: ANP/Gahetna/Het Koninklijk Huis