Tiara Thursday: Princess Claire's Tiaras

It's a double tiara day. Celebrate!

Princess Claire's Wedding Tiara

On her wedding day in 2003, Princess Claire of Belgium debuted a new-to-the-family tiara, a dainty diamond structure purchased for her by King Albert and Queen Paola. The tiara has a small base but a bit of height, a shape that doesn't suit everyone but worked perfectly with Claire's own delicate features.

At the beginning of her marriage, this was Claire's only tiara and she wore it for all her tiara occasions. But at the 2010 wedding of Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden, she pulled out a surprise and wore another new-to-her tiara, a slightly larger diamond structure of posts and scrolls topped with large round pearls.

Princess Claire's Pearl and Diamond Tiara

A new tiara in the Belgian royal family is an unusual thing, really; the purchase of Claire's wedding tiara seems to have been out of necessity more than anything, since there apparently aren't that many tiaras floating around in the family and they don't do a tremendous amount of sharing. It's not surprising, then, that many initially assumed that Claire had been loaned a tiara for the Swedish royal wedding.

We've seen her in the "new" tiara at more occasions since then, however (at both the 2011 wedding in Monaco and the 2012 wedding in Luxembourg), so it appears to be her property. In fact, we haven't seen her wedding tiara since - but Claire's tiara-wearing occasions are sparse these days, since there hasn't been a tiara event in Belgium for a few years. I hope we'll see her wedding tiara again soon, though. I do have a certain affection for the delicate piece, and it's definitely my favorite of the two.

Which one is your favorite?

Photos: Getty Images/Belga/PPE/CTK

Tiara Thursday: The Akishino Tiara

The Akishino Tiara

We did not see any of our previously-covered Japanese tiaras in action at their annual New Year's event this year, but here's one we did get to see. This tiara belongs to Princess Kiko, or the Princess Akishino. She's married to Prince Akishino, second son of Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko. It shares several characteristics with other tiaras from the imperial family: it comes with a matching parure, including at least a necklace, brooch, and earrings, and it is composed of all white stones (diamonds in this case). The design motif's a little hard to see and name, but it's always looked like a chain of paper dolls to me. (See it in action again: in the second video of this post, or at the end of this video.)

Princess Kiko (née Kiko Kawashima) debuted the parure on her wedding day in 1990. The set was most likely made for Kiko, as the family has a few tiaras to pass down but often purchase new for new tiara-wearers; Mikimoto is a popular jeweler with the imperial household and a likely maker. It is, so far, the only tiara we've seen on her - but she may have more options in her future, as she is set to become the empress one day. Akishino's older brother, Crown Prince Naruhito, has only a daughter; girls are ineligible for the throne at this point, making the Akishino couple and their son, Prince Hisahito, next in line after Naruhito. That means that the tiaras reserved for the empress may eventually be added to Kiko's line up* (and I wonder if the same will go for the Crown Princess Scroll Tiara). But she's got a good option here to tide her over - in fact, it might just be my favorite Japanese tiara.

How to you rank this one among the imperial tiaras?

*Updated to add clarification: Yes, it is possible the line of succession (Naruhito-Akishino-Hisahito) might not mean that all three sit on the throne; one possibility is that Akishino could predecease his brother. This was not mentioned in the original entry because it's always a possibility when discussing lines of succession. Even if Kiko never becomes the empress, she and her husband have an increasingly important role to play, and it's interesting to ponder how that might change her tiara prospects.

Photos: Imperial Household Agency/yuko2ch

Tiara Thursday: The Cartier Onyx Tree Kokoshnik

The Cartier Onyx Tree Kokoshnik

We don't see onyx that often in today's royal jewels, though it was long a staple of mourning jewelry. But in this tiara the black material shines, depicting an Art Deco tree with branches sprawling across a diamond background in a platinum setting. The tiara, made by Cartier Paris in 1914, also features pearls studding the top of its kokoshnik shape (kokoshniks are traditional Russian headdresses) and touches of black enamel. The tree is fascinating here, too - nature motifs are incredibly common in the tiara world, but this stylized version is a uniquely complete depiction, trunk and all. The combo of the tree and the black onyx gives this diadem sort of an Evil Queen appeal, don't you think? Just me? (That's a compliment, by the way. The Evil Queen always gets the best wardrobe.)

Center detail of the tiara; a clutch with the tiara's image carried by Charlotte Casiraghi; the Cartier exhibit ad

The tiara exists in the Cartier world as a showpiece, really, a stunning example of the craftsmanship and Art Deco styling of the renowned firm. I have not seen it in use (though if you have an example, feel free to comment). It's a cover girl tiara, its image adorning book covers, promotional materials, even purses. Currently, it's being used in promotions for a massive Cartier exhibit in Paris.

Video: The Cartier exhibit

The Cartier: Style and History exhibition at the Grand Palais, Paris, runs until February 16, 2014. Hundreds of Cartier works of art are on display, including some pieces with royal connections. Queen Elizabeth II has loaned out the Williamson Diamond Brooch and the Halo Scroll Tiara; Monaco's princely family has loaned pieces including the Cartier Pearl Drop Tiara, the brooches from the Bains de Mer Tiara, a diamond necklace, and Princess Grace's engagement ring; the bandeau tiara that belonged to Belgium's Queen Elisabeth is out for show, plus pieces from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor, and much much more. If you can get there, don't miss it! 

How do you rate this tree tiara?

P.S.: Our new Royal Outfit of the Day series runs on Thursdays too, so keep reading for the second post!

Photos: Cartier/Getty Images

Tiara Thursday: The Japanese Crown Princess Scroll Tiara

The Japanese Crown Princess Scroll Tiara

The Japanese tiara best known today as the diadem worn by Masako Owada during the events surrounding her wedding to Japan’s Crown Prince Naruhito in 1993 played a previous role in another important imperial wedding: the 1959 marriage of Michiko Shōda to Crown Prince Akihito, today the Emperor and Empress, and Naruhito’s parents. The Japanese court isn’t exactly forthcoming about many tiara histories, but we can trace this tiara back at least that far.

Michiko (3, left) and Masako (2, right)

The tiaras worn by the Japanese imperial ladies are always made of white stones, mostly diamonds with some pearls, and this all diamond number is no exception. It’s a large diadem in an exaggerated scroll design, and – again like most other tiaras from this family – it is part of a parure, including a perfectly matched necklace.

Video: Masako with Naruhito, during the tiara-wearing portion of her wedding day. Click here for another look, also including video of Michiko wearing the tiara.

Empress Michiko wore it on her wedding day (the celebrations include traditional Japanese dress but also include parts in Western dress) and continued to wear it for events in the years following. When her eldest son married, she turned the set over to the new Crown Princess, so at least for now we have a bit of a Crown Princess tradition going. Masako began wearing it for her wedding celebrations and then continued to wear it at other tiara occasions, such as the annual New Year’s event and state banquets.

Video: Masako can be seen wearing the tiara at around 0:30 in this series of clips

Unfortunately, it’s been a number of years since we have seen the Crown Princess Scroll Tiara. We rarely see Masako in a tiara since she withdrew from much of her public life after she began suffering from what has been termed an “adjustment disorder,” popularly speculated to have been caused by the strict life of the Japanese imperial court and the intense pressure to produce a much-needed heir. (The couple welcomed a daughter, Aiko, eight years after their marriage, but only males are eligible to inherit the throne. Discussion of changing the policy halted when Naruhito’s brother, Prince Akishino, and his wife had a son.) We do occasionally see her arriving for the New Year’s event in the car, but for the past few years she has chosen her second tiara – a pearl-tipped fringe that was also worn by Michiko – for that job. Masako, who celebrated her 50th birthday this week, has been showing signs of improvement, notably traveling to the inauguration in the Netherlands earlier this year. So perhaps there is hope that we might see a full return of Masako, and this tiara, at some point in the future.

How do you rate this scroll tiara?

Photos: Imperial Household Agency/Corbis

Tiara Thursday: The Duchess of Windsor's Emerald Bead Tiara

I’ve received quite a few questions over time about the Duchess of Windsor (Wallis Simpson, 1896-1986) and tiaras. Though we might not immediately associate her with tiaras, she was occasionally spotted with some sort of sparkling headgear, today’s tiara being perhaps the closest she came to the royal tiara realm as we know it.

The tiara she’s wearing here was created for her by Cartier in 1949 and is actually a necklace made to do double duty as a tiara when required. The base is a row of emerald beads which were already in her jewel collection; the top features diamond loops in double rows, the diamonds supplied by Cartier. A basically identical piece had been made for Cartier’s stock in the same year (shown below). She wore her version just a few times in tiara form - the Duchess of Windsor may have been known for her magnificent jewel collection, but tiaras were not a big part of her bedazzled self.

The Cartier stock piece

That impressive collection (which was auctioned after her death to benefit charity, and parts of which continue to come up for sale from time to time – including a current Sotheby’s auction) was comprised of some seriously modern pieces, commissioned by both the Duchess and the Duke from noted jewelers like Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. They were a fashionable couple and were concerned with remaining fashionable, so it’s no surprise the Duchess reset her jewels as necessary to stay current. But some have suggested that their modern taste was backed by more than just an aesthetic concern - it was a conscious break from the traditional styles of the royal collection Wallis would never get to wear.

Considering things from that perspective, it’s no wonder tiaras didn’t feature regularly. This necklace/tiara is a nice compromise, I think: interesting and eye-catching in its use of emerald beads, modern and clean in design, but also an unmistakably royal shape when worn as a tiara.

Do you like this little tiara compromise?

Photos: National Portrait Gallery/Cartier Ltd

Tiara Thursday: The Rosenborg Kokoshnik

The Rosenborg Kokoshnik Tiara

Designed in the shape inspired by traditional Russian kokoshnik headdresses, this tiara features a swagged garland of garnets and garnet five-petal flowers, with further leaf ornaments in diamonds and a central bow, all studded with pearls and set in platinum and gold. It comes with a handy extra feature: the top row of diamonds detaches for use as a diamond rivère necklace.

Princess Viggo (left), Countess Ruth (center and right)

The kokoshnik was made by Danish court jeweler Dragsted in the 1930s on the order of Prince Viggo, Count of Rosenborg (1893-1970), a grandson of King Christian IX of Denmark. He commissioned it for his American-born wife, Princess Viggo (1895-1966, née Eleanor Green). Prince and Princess Viggo had no children of their own, and the tiara was inherited by Viggo’s sister-in-law Princess Margaretha (1899-1977). Margaretha was a Swedish royal who married Prince Axel of Denmark. The tiara was then used by Countess Ruth of Rosenborg (1924-2010), wife of Margaretha and Axel’s son, Flemming. She wore it for several notable Scandinavian royal events, but following her death, it was offered for sale at a 2012 auction. The estimated value was placed at more than $200,000, but it did not sell.

Left to Right: The necklace that serves as the top row of the tiara, the center of the tiara, and the back

This is such an interesting piece – large yet light from the open design, and with an interesting mix of materials. The use of garnets alone is intriguing; rubies are a more popular option for tiaras, and in fact the stones in this tiara have often been mistaken for that red stone counterpart. I'm not entirely sold on this one myself, since the top seems to be larger than the bottom and that can make it tricky to wear. But while the kokoshnik didn't rank very high in our recent final ultimate collection vote, it still did get a few votes of confidence. So, tell me...

Do you find this one memorable?

Photos: Bukowskis/Corbis/Scanpix

Tiara Thursday: Crown Princess Victoria's 18th Birthday Tiara

Crown Princess Victoria's 18th Birthday Tiara

By now, we’ve seen Crown Princess Victoria in a wide array of Swedish tiaras, but she started out nice and light. This is her 18th birthday present from the King and Queen, and it was the first tiara she wore when she began attending tiara events in 1995, the year of that big birthday. It’s mainly a metal piece, with small uprights – forming something of a v-shape pattern, appropriately – supporting a top row of small individual diamonds and sapphires.

I’m often asked to do a list of least favorite tiaras…and I have to tell you, this one might just top such a list. I find it sad, really, the wire-looking bits overshadowing the precious elements. It’s awfully low-key for a future queen – even Princess Madeleine’s 18th birthday tiara had more heft than this. And when she returns to it after wearing other more impressive pieces, it seems even smaller.

Video: The Nobel Prize Awards in 1995, her first time attending

But luckily for haters like me, she moved on pretty quickly. She’s done plenty of exploring in the family collection; what we’ve seen to date is already more variety than most of our royal ladies, and there are still plenty more for her to debut over the years and as she becomes queen. Accordingly, the birthday tiara’s appearances have grown sparse. I believe its last showing was at a representation dinner in 2007.

Victoria’s latest new tiara was Princess Lilian’s Laurel Wreath Tiara, one that Lilian said she would leave to Victoria after her death, which came in March 2013. Just recently, details of Lilian’s will have been made public, and reports are stating that Victoria was left not one but two diadems, listed as a diamond tiara and a diadem of gold and diamonds further described as Crown Princess Margaret’s diadem in steel, white gold, and diamonds. This reference is intriguing since the Laurel Wreath is the only one publicly known to have been Lilian’s property. An incorrect interpretation, or new information? We wait to see if we’ll be surprised.

How do you rate the birthday tiara?

Photos: Polfoto/IBL/Getty Images/Kungahuset

Tiara Thursday: The Prussian Meander Tiara

The Prussian Meander Tiara

The Prussian Meander Tiara was made by German court jewellers Koch in 1905 as a wedding gift for Duchess Cecilie of Mecklenburg-Schwerin (1886-1954) from her groom, Wilhelm, the German Crown Prince and Crown Prince of Prussia (appropriately, this is also commonly known as Crown Princess Cecilie's Meander Tiara).

Cecilie

Made of diamonds set in platinum in a kokoshnik shape, it includes panels of diamond trellis work set between two rows of Greek key or meander motifs. Each trellis section is centered by a large brilliant diamond.

It's a striking and grand diadem, and was well suited to its original purpose - after all, had history turned out differently, Wilhelm would have succeeded his father, Wilhelm II, as Emperor of Germany and King of Prussia, and this would have been worn by an Empress and Queen. Obviously that's not what happened, but the tiara is still with the Hohenzollern family and is still worn by the couple's descendants.

In the next generation, it was worn by Grand Duchess Kira Kirillovna of Russia (1909-1967) when she married Cecilie and Wilhelm's son Prince Louis Ferdinand in 1938. Turning it into a family wedding tradition, it was worn by both of Kira and Louis Ferdinand's daughters at their respective weddings: Princess Marie-Cécile in 1965 when she married Duke Friedrich August of Oldenburg and Princess Xenia in 1973 when she married Per-Edvard Lithander. The tiara disappeared for a time but made a grand reappearance when Prince Georg Friedrich, grandson of Kira and Louis Ferdinand, married Princess Sophie of Isenburg. Sophie wore her family's floral tiara for the couple's religious ceremony and then changed into the Prussian Meander Tiara for their wedding ball and looked every bit the new Princess of Prussia.

Left to Right: Kira, Marie-Cécile, Sophie

Princess Sophie's appearance in the tiara was a reminder just how large this one really is - and yet, thanks to that dainty diamond trellis in the middle, it manages not to overwhelm. I can only hope we will get more opportunities to see this on Sophie in the future!

Is this a favorite for you?

Photos: DR/Bunte

Tiara Thursday: The Boucheron Emerald Ivy Tiara

It's Halloween, and I have for you today a tiara that would be the perfect complement to the forest fairy outfit I know you've been planning:

The Boucheron Emerald Ivy Tiara

This fascinating piece is from Boucheron, made in 2003 under the design of then-creative director Solange Azagury-Partridge. The tiara is in the shape of a wreath of ivy, made entirely from emeralds set in black gold. René Brus notes in his book Crown Jewellery and Regalia of the World that the design is based on a necklace from the Boucheron archive that dates from 1890, and of course ivy motifs on the whole have often been used in jewels throughout history. In this case, it is the materials here that make this something completely new. It's rare to see a tiara that is all colored gemstones without diamonds or pearls or anything else to break it up. It's also rare to see the use of black gold, which gives the tiara a rather deep, mysterious feel.

Queen Rania

The tiara was worn twice (that I know of) by Queen Rania of Jordan: in a portrait and for a state banquet during a 2003 visit to Sweden with her husband, King Abdullah II. This is a tricky piece to style but she did it well, allowing it to lend the appropriate drama to the portrait and pairing it with an ethereal gown for the state visit. But it seems it was only on loan to the Queen by Boucheron, and so we won't see it again. I love the design variety this tiara provides, but I can also understand fully why you would loan it and return it instead of own it for yourself - such a statement piece is bound to have limited uses.

What say you: too costume-y, or perfect for regular wear?

Photos: Boucheron/Vanity Fair/Abaca

Tiara Thursday (on a Friday): The Londonderry Tiara

A day late, because BABIES, but here nevertheless is your weekly dose of sparkle:

The Londonderry Tiara

The Londonderry Tiara, you'll not be surprised to learn, is the headline jewel in the rather magnificent collection of the Londonderry family, headed by the Marquess of Londonderry. Several members of the family have played significant roles in politics and British high society throughout history, and as the family gems have been worn by one Marchioness after another to one important event after another, the jewels have gained a fame of their own.

Marchioness Frances Anne (left) and Marchioness Theresa (right, wearing the tiara)

The first influential Lady Londonderry to play a role in this tiara's story is Frances Anne (1800-1865), wife of the third Marquess. In 1854, she commissioned Garrard to dismantle existing Londonderry pieces (a waistband or belt, some of the insignia of the Order of the Garter that belonged to the second Marquess, plus more) and create a new parure. This tiara was part of that new set. It is made from 1,141 diamonds, including some fine Golconda and Brazilian stones, in silver settings mounted in gold. The diamonds – 482.5 carats in all - form a tiara that makes a near complete circle and takes the shape of swags connecting a series of palm motifs. The original estimate from Garrard, which is quoted in Diana Scarisbrick’s Ancestral Jewels, notes that the tiara is to “divide as comb and brooches”, but the diadem has been changed plenty over the years. Initially, the centers of the tiara motifs were pearls; the family has an impressive set of pearls to their name, some of which could be mounted on top of the tiara for a taller look. The centers of the tiara motifs are now diamonds and are mounted to tremble on springs for maximum sparkle.

Marchioness Theresa. On the left, she attends the Devonshire House Ball in 1897 decked out as Empress Maria Theresa of Austria with a gown copied from a portrait and covered in her own jewels, including a crown of real diamonds specially made up for the occasion behind the tiara. On the right, she adds the pearls to the tiara for the coronation of Edward VII in 1902.

Both versions of the tiara - with and without pearls on top - were worn to great effect by Theresa (1856-1919), wife of the sixth Marquess. She had a forceful personality and plenty of influence to exert; she was a renowned society hostess and used the full force of the family jewel collection to get the job done (part of E.F. Benson’s description of her, as quoted in Geoffrey Munn’s Tiaras: A History of Splendour: “She reveled in personal splendor, she frankly and unmitigatedly enjoyed standing at the head of her stairs… with the ‘family fender’ as she called that nice diamond crown on her most comely head.”). Her use of that family fender at many important occasions is well recorded, including the time it slipped off her head and fell in the toilet at the coronation of Edward VII (a predicament that came to light when her extended time in the loo became conspicuous and she had to call for assistance; the tiara was rescued by a pair of forceps).

Marchioness Edith with the tiara in portrait (left) and for the 1937 coronation (center). Note the other family jewelry shown here and above, including the diamond Latin cross on Theresa, plus the famous Londonderry pearls and the enormous diamond stomacher on both Edith and Theresa. Right: the tiara on display at the V&A.

This collection became so well known that when Edith (1878-1959), wife of the seventh Marquess and another influential Lady Londonderry, was criticized for bringing the gems out again after World War I, the Illustrated London News jumped to her defense. The publication named the “superb and plenteous” Londonderry jewels “a heritage, and one in which Britishers all round take a vicarious pride.” This tiara, along with other treasures, is still with the family. In recent years they've shared the bounty by allowing the tiara (as well as their fantastic amethysts) to be exhibited at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. I've seen it there, and it is enchanting; it's one that I forget I love until I see it again, and then I feel the sudden need to rework my list of favorites.

Is it a favorite for you?

Photos: Geoffrey Munn/Londonderry family/Wikipedia/NPG/Lafayette/V&A

Tiara Thursday: The Vifte Tiara

The Vifte Tiara (shown in necklace form)

Today's tiara is a lesser-known member of the Norwegian royal collection, but one I wouldn't mind seeing more often. The tiara is a smaller piece in a fan shape ("vifte" means "fan" in Norwegian) composed entirely of diamonds set in gold and silver. It can be worn upright in the hair or worn on a diamond necklace. It may be a petite tiara, but it has grand origins: it is said to have been a gift from Queen Victoria to her granddaughter, Princess Maud of Wales, to mark Maud's 18th birthday in 1887.

Queen Maud

Maud was the daughter of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra; she married Prince Carl of Denmark, who in 1905 became King Haakon VII, first king of the newly independent Norway. The Vifte Tiara came with Queen Maud to Norway, and there it remains today.

Queen Sonja

The tiara was inherited by Maud's grandson King Harald, and has been worn by his wife Queen Sonja (who started using it during her years as crown princess). More recently, it has been worn a couple of times - as a necklace only - by Crown Princess Mette-Marit, who first wore it to her pre-wedding celebrations.

Crown Princess Mette-Marit

It's not worn often, which is probably not a surprise given its unique shape and small size. But I do wish we'd see it more; this little tiara plus a skilled hairdresser could yield fantastic results (it has some serious My Fair Lady potential, no?).

What do you think: serious potential, or seriously too small?

Photos: Corbis/NTBScanpix

Tiara Thursday: Archduchess Isabella's Peridot and Diamond Tiara

Archduchess Isabella's Peridot and Diamond Tiara

Today's tiara received a fair bit of attention during our round up last week of tiaras which venture beyond standard featured stones. And this is very much an interesting and uncommon stone for a tiara: peridot, a green option with a range of shades from rather pale and watery to an intense olive or even lime green. These particular peridots are quite fine, with good purity, huge size, and a deep olive color. There are five peridot stones in the tiara, each surrounded by a scrolling foliate diamond frame. The tiara is part of a parure which includes a set of earrings, a large brooch (or devant de corsage), and a necklace; the necklace includes seven drops which can be removed and mounted upright on the tiara.

Archduchess Isabella

The tiara dates from the 1820s and is attributed to Kochert, court jeweler to the sprawling Habsburg family in Austria. It's said to have originally been made for Princess Henrietta of Nassau-Weilburg (1797-1829), who was the wife of Archduke Charles, Duke of Teschen. But the tiara is most strongly associated with Princess Isabella of Croÿ (1856-1931), who married Archduke Friedrich, grandson of Henrietta and Charles and a successor to the Duke of Teschen title. It is on Archduchess Isabella that we have our first evidence of the tiara in use.

The necklace, earrings, and brooch from the parure

The parure has been through a few sales since Archduchess Isabella's time. The first came after the 1936 death of her husband, Archduke Friedrich; in 1937, the set was sold to Count Johannes Coudenhove-Kalergi (1893-1965) and his wife Countess Lilly. The jewels ended up in the United States, eventually passing to their daughter, Marina. Countess Marina lived a life apart from her noble roots, and the jewels stayed tucked away inconspicously in a bank safety deposit box for decades. When she died in 2000, her estate administrators were shocked to find that the jewels from her mother she had mentioned turned out to be this exquisite set with royal provenance, as verified by Sotheby's.

Joan Rivers, wearing the necklace and earrings

The jewels were auctioned by Sotheby's in 2001 and sold for around $400,000. They were bought by Fred Leighton, the jewelry firm well known for its celebrity connections, and the necklace and earrings were later loaned out to comedian and TV personality Joan Rivers for the 2004 Golden Globes ceremony. At some point, at least a part of the set was purchased by Lily Safra, as the earrings and brooch were placed on auction yet again in May 2012 when a selection of jewels from the philanthropist's collection were sold by Christie's for charity. I don't believe the whereabouts of the necklace and tiara are publicly known today.

The tiara with the necklace pendants attached

I'm not a big fan of peridot - these just aren't my favorite shades of green - but I do love seeing a tiara that makes an unusual stone choice. I love the variety, and I wish we saw more of such things on today's royal ladies.

Peridot tiaras: yes or no?

Photos: Sotheby's/Wikimedia Commons/Christies/WireImage

Tiara Thursday: The Bagration Parure

The Bagration Parure Tiara

Today's tiara holds a stone we don't see often in diadems: the pink spinel. Spinels are interesting stones; the red ones are often confused for rubies (the famous Black Prince's Ruby and the Timur Ruby are both in fact spinels) and indeed there was a time when no distinction between ruby and red spinel was made in jewelry inventories. The pink versions showcased here are framed by diamonds and set in a valuable and old diamond structure. The tiara is highlighted by the pear-shaped spinels, which hang beneath diamond arches and sit on top of a scrolling diamond design studded with more spinels. The tiara's diamond base features oval spinels. The tiara dates from the early 1800s and is attributed to J.B. Fossin, one of the jewelers who shaped the beginnings of the Chaumet firm. The full set includes the tiara, a matching hair comb, a necklace of six pink spinel and diamond plaques with several pendants, and a pair of pendant earrings.

The parure's necklace, earrings, and haircomb

The necklace and earrings are Russian-made and were later additions, dating from the 1870s. They were added by subsequent owners, but the tiara originated with Catherine Bagration (1783-1857). Raised at the Russian imperial court, she married Peter Ivanovitch Bagration, a general in the Russian army and a prince from the Georgian royal Bagration family. She was an intriguing figure - her Wikipedia page is worth a browse - and it was for her the tiara was made, or at least acquired, and for her it is named.

The current Duke and Duchess of Westminster, on their wedding day

The parure might have faded away, lost to history, but a modern sale placed it in a collection of note. The current Duke of Westminster purchased it for his fiancée, Natalia Phillips (who has Russian ancestory herself), and she wore it on their wedding day in October 1978. The set joins the rest of the tiaras in the Westminster collection, and though we don't often see them in use publicly, the family is generous in allowing them to be displayed and so on.

As I said a few weeks ago, the world needs more pink tiaras, and I like this one more every time I see it. The parure isn't just notable because of its stone, but because of its age - many tiaras of this age have been significantly changed since, if they are still in existence at all today. The addition of a hair comb in the set is hint enough, as they are rare inclusions today but were once staples of the great sets of jewels made when the French monarchy was at its most impressive.

Is this one a favorite for you?

Photos: Geoffrey Munn/Their Graces The Duke and Duchess of Westminster/Spokeo

Tiara Thursday: The Diamond Vine Leaves Tiara

The Diamond Vine Leaves Tiara

I usually just refer to today’s tiara as the larger Luxembourg floral tiara because it is indeed the larger of the two all diamond floral motif tiaras currently in use by the ladies of the grand ducal family – and from a distance, the size is the easiest way to tell the two apart (here’s the smaller one). A closer look will show you, though, that instead of flowers, the larger one features leaves and curly little vine pieces, with additional single diamonds acting as berries. The motif actually reminds me of the Danish Ruby Parure Tiara, with its wreath of leaves and berries.

Grand Duchess Maria Teresa

But whatever you call it, the details are the same: it is made of white diamonds set in silver and yellow gold, it dates from the mid-19th century, and it is convertible to brooch pieces or necklace components when removed from its frame. Though not particularly tall, it is long and wraps generously around the head.

Video: In action on Princess Stéphanie at her pre-wedding dinner. She appears at the end, about 5:58.

The tiara’s seen plenty of use on the head of Grand Duchess Maria Teresa, the wife of the current Grand Duke of Luxembourg, Henri. It has been in the family a lot longer, though (it’s actually part of their family foundation, ensuring it stays in the collection from generation to generation). It wasn’t popular with Henri’s mother, Grand Duchess Joséphine-Charlotte (according to the court, she only wore it once), and it wasn’t popular with Henri’s grandmother, Grand Duchess Charlotte, either (apparently she never wore it). But it was used by all four of Charlotte’s daughters on their wedding days – Luxarazzi has them all lined up for you, click here.

Princess Stéphanie, Princess Claire, and another close up look

The wedding tradition has been revived with Henri and Maria Teresa’s daughters-in-law: the Hereditary Grand Duchess wore her own family’s tiara for her wedding day, but she wore the Vine Leaves Tiara for her pre-wedding dinner, and of course Princess Claire recently wore the tiara for her wedding day (oh, and for an even longer glimpse of the tiara in action, RTL has more than an hour long video of the wedding, click here - you're definitely going to want to carve out some time for that). We have yet to see the tiara on Princess Tessy, their other daughter-in-law, or on their daughter Princess Alexandra, so it will be interesting to see if the tradition lives on.

How do you think this one works as a wedding tiara?

Photos: AOP/Cour grand-ducale/Christian Aschman/Getty Images

Tiara Thursday: Farah's Seven Emerald Tiara

Farah's Seven Emerald Tiara

This unique emerald tiara was made by Harry Winston in 1958 in advance of the marriage of the Shah of Iran and Farah Diba. Much like the Noor-ol-Ain Tiara, which was made in the same time frame for the same purpose, it includes a mix of diamond colors and incorporates old stones from the Iranian crown collection. The heart-shape pointed base is made of a row of platinum-set baguette white diamonds which sit underneath a double row of pink, yellow, and white diamonds. The brilliants are thought to be from the 19th century and Indian in origin; the largest two are 15 carats apiece. The top is set with seven large oval and round cabochon emeralds which are probably from South America and were likely cut before 1738 (when Nadir Shah invaded India). The emeralds range in size from 10 carats each (for the two smallest) to 65 carats (for the large central stone), and are framed in diamonds thought to be from South Africa.

Empress Farah

It's often said to have been Empress Farah's favorite tiara, and she certainly wore it for many important events. It paired particularly well with the large and fashionable tiara hairstyles she was prone to - in fact, a mega updo seems something of a requirement for a tiara like this, with a base constantly threatening to poke you in the head.

Video: In action, towards the end

The tiara may have been a signature piece for the Empress, but it belonged to the crown jewel collection and as such did not come with her when the imperial family fled the country in 1979. In 1937, during the reign of Mohammed Reza Pahlavi's father, ownership of the important historical jewels was given over to the state to back the country's monetary system, a purpose they still serve (how's that for collateral, eh?). While they are no longer worn, the jewels are safe and sound and available for public viewing at the Treasury of National Jewels in the Central Bank of the Islamic Republic of Iran in Tehran.

What do you make of this emerald tiara?

Photos: Harry Winston/Point de Vue

Tiara Thursday: The Chaumet Bourbon-Parma Tiara

The Chaumet Bourbon-Parma Tiara

This is one of those rare tiaras that has managed to become fairly well known despite the fact that it isn't owned by a reigning royal family, and wasn't ever really worn by a hugely famous royal. It does have royal roots, though, as it was initially a wedding gift for a royal marriage. The Belle Époque style tiara was made in 1919 by Joseph Chaumet and was bought by the Duchess of Doudeauville (some reports say it was the Duke). She gave it to her daughter, Hedwige de La Rochefoucauld (1896-1986), for her marriage to Prince Sixtus of Bourbon-Parma that same year. It has a base which alternates between sizes of diamond collets and a body of sprays of diamonds held by knife-edge platinum settings. The top has upright pear-shape diamonds and there are both round and pear-shape diamonds below.

The wedding of Sixtus and Hedwige (this tiara not included)

You might be tempted to relate the Bourbon-Parma name to the current crop of Bourbon-Parma relations that are still roaming around today's royal events, but Sixtus and his family were just one part of the enormous B-P family. Prince Sixtus was the son of Robert I, Duke of Parma and Maria Antonia of Portugal, the Duke's second wife. Robert fathered 24 children in his two marriages and his descendants include the Luxembourg royals (son Prince Félix of Bourbon-Parma married Grand Duchess Charlotte), the family of Empress Zita of Austria (who was another of Robert's children), the children of Princess Irene of the Netherlands (whose late husband was Carlos Hugo, Duke of Parma and grandson of Robert), and more.

Modeled by Sophie Marceau (left) and Stella Tennant (right)

This tiara did not stay in that huge family, though. It was ultimately reacquired by Chaumet, and if you were previously familiar with this tiara, your connection is likely thanks to the Chaumet ownership. It has appeared in ads, exhibitions, and on film: Valérie Lemercier wore it in Palais Royal! and a copy appeared on the head of Anne Hathaway in the Princess Diaries films.

Valérie Lemercier (left) and Anne Hathaway (right)

It's a good tiara to use for promotion, since the skill required to put this one together is evident. I think it looks best when worn, when the connections between the diamonds disappear and it takes on a delicate water drop look.

How do you rate this tiara?

Photos: Chaumet/Disney